A tire speed rating is a code you’ll find on your tire’s sidewall that tells you how fast you can go with that tire — in other words, the maximum speed that it can safely handle without exploding all over the side of the interstate. It doesn’t just tell you how fast the tire can go in a lab. It also ties into how your vehicle handles, brakes, and grips the road in real life. So even if you’re not planning to push your car to the limit on I-5, it’s still worth understanding, especially as it relates to auto insurance in Washington. Let’s drive right in so you can get tire speed ratings explained in simple terms.
So what do all the letters on your tire mean? What is tire speed rating in terms of actual English? You won’t just find one or two characters — usually it’s a combination of tire letters and numbers meaning … something. In fact, though, there is a method to the madness.
Look at the sidewall of your tire. You’ll see a code that looks something like “P215/60R16 94H.” On the very end of that blurb, in this case, the letter “H,” that’s your speed rating. You may find matching codes on the driver’s side door jamb (usually a sticker, or in some cases a plate), in your owner’s manual, or on the fuel door. If you’re using this as a car tire replacement guide, that’s where you check what tires the car was designed to use.
Going back to that previous example. Let’s say you have a gander at your tire sidewall and see that code: P215/60R16 94H. Don’t worry. It’s not an ancient language. But it is a specific piece of information your manufacturer is trying to convey. To break it down:
For the purposes of the speed rating, you’re looking at that last letter: “H.”
Every letter indicates a specific speed you can go on that tire until you begin to run into durability problems. If you’re familiar with the Myers-Briggs personality type (for example, are you “INTJ?”), it’s kind of the same thing.
Manufacturers test tires in a lab on a special machine that spins them at increasing speeds while under load. The tire has to survive without failing for a set period at its rated speed (and often at higher temperatures) to earn its letter. Higher rating = generally better high-speed stability and handling, but not always longer life.
Higher-speed-rated tires usually have a stiffer construction. That means sharper steering response and better grip on corners. It also means that the rubber compounds and construction that handle higher speeds help you to stop faster and more safely. If you downgrade your rating “to save a few bucks,” you’re trading away some of the safety and performance your car was designed around. Not ideal, especially in PNW rain, potholes, and surprise freeway slowdowns. Tire safety tips mostly revolve around choosing the right tires for your usual driving conditions.
| Speed Rating | Maximum Speed (MPH) | Typical Vehicle Type | Best For |
| S | Up to 112 | Family sedans, minivans | Everyday commuting |
| T | Up to 118 | Sedans, small SUVs | Balanced comfort & safety |
| H | Up to 130 | Passenger cars, crossovers | Higher performance daily driving |
| V | Up to 149 | Sports sedans, performance cars | Drivers who like a little extra “zoom” |
| W/Z | 168+ | Sports & luxury vehicles | High-speed performance |
Here’s the annoying but honest answer: Your tire’s speed rating is not usually listed as a separate factor on your policy (it’s not part of typical car insurance requirements in Washington). But it can still matter for risk, and risk is what insurance companies care about. If you put wildly inappropriate tires on your car and that contributes to a crash, don’t be shocked if there are questions. Insurers want your vehicle to be in a safe, roadworthy condition.
Think about it from the insurer’s point of view. What do they like? Well, they want a car, really, that isn’t going to freakin’ crash into the nearest Douglas Fir at 150 mph. In other words, good brakes, stability, good tires, and modern safety tech all make the difference. All of that reduces the chance of a claim. While most companies won’t say, “You have H-rated tires, here’s a discount,” they absolutely consider the overall risk picture.
Spending a bit more for properly rated, higher-quality tires can be worth it when you drive on the highway regularly, own a high-performance vehicle, live in an area with fast traffic and rapid slowdowns, and need some help with the elements. Remember, it rains a lot up here, and high traction matters. Avoiding accidents is the key. Both for your safety and for your bank account, when it comes to insurance costs.
Think of this as the real-world choosing the right tires guide: not “what looks cool,” but “what actually fits your car and your life.”
Stick with your car’s original rating or higher. Dropping below the manufacturer’s specifications is not recommended. S, T, or H are satisfactory for most city and suburban driving situations, but V, W, and Z may be better for a muscle car or something that can “vroom vroom” fast. Don’t cheap out — you don’t want to do the car equivalent of wearing flip flops in a snowstorm.
Yes, you should absolutely read the owner’s manual at least once in your life. The tire section is a good place to start. Check the recommended tire size, speed rating, and seasonal maintenance — especially if you need all-season tires for winter driving in Washington. Still confused? That’s when you call a local tire shop. Tell them your car type, how you drive, and where you drive. Between that and the manual, you’ll get a solid recommendation without needing a PhD in tire science.
Vern Fonk auto insurance is built for real people with real budgets, not imaginary perfect drivers who never miss a maintenance appointment. If you’re upgrading your tires, changing vehicles, or just realizing your coverage might be as worn as your old tread, it’s a smart time to get a quote on our website, give us a call at (800) 455-8276, or visit us today at one of our Washington offices!
Technically, you can buy them. But you generally should not go below your vehicle’s original speed rating.
Not necessarily. In fact, high-speed performance tires often wear out faster because they use softer rubber for grip. A properly chosen S, T, or H tire for a commuter car might last longer than an aggressive W- or Z-rated performance tire driven hard.
You’re rolling the dice. At speeds beyond the rating, the tire can overheat, lose structural integrity, and in extreme cases, fail. Even if it doesn’t explode dramatically, heat and stress can cause internal damage you can’t see — which sets you up for problems later.
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